CARPET CLEANING TIPS:

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Spot Cleaning Tips



Pre-test all spotting solutions in an inconspicuous area prior to using on any fabric to make certain the solution will not alter the fibers or damage the texture of the fibers. Dye bleeding will show up on the towel. If any dye transfer or damage becomes visible you should contact a professional technician to clean up spills unless you plan to use nothing but water.

Act quickly; many spills can be removed if immediate action is taken. The longer you delay, the higher the probability of a spill becoming a permanent stain. Remember, staining is influenced by many factors, and no carpet is completely stain proof. You'll need a few items first, it is usually better to have these items ready before you ever need them. Several white terry towels, paper towels (or a wet-vac), 4 trigger sprayers, a pail and sponges are a good idea also. From the chart below pre-mix the solutions and place into the sprayers. Label them for quick reference.

The solutions you want to have ready are detergent, ammonia, vinegar, and plain water. Don't forget to have a liter of Club Soda as well.

Blot liquids with dry, white, absorbent terry towels or white paper towels, until all of the spill is absorbed. (Or use a wet vac) Do not scrub the area! Scrubbing may cause pile distortion. For semi-solids, gently scrape up with a spoon. Dry solids should be broken up and vacuumed out prior to treatment. Mud is usually best left to dry, then vacuumed and spot cleaned.

Locate the substance in the spot removal chart and follow the directions carefully. Rule of thumb here is to use the first solution for immediate removal or until no more stain/spot transfers to the towel or upon removal, then proceed to the next solution in the chart if the stain persists. Apply a small amount of the selected cleaning solution to a white cloth, and work in gently. Work from the edges of the spill to the center to prevent spreading. Do not scrub! Blot! Absorb as much as possible, and repeat if necessary, always rotate your towel using a clean area each time you blot or apply more solution. Continue in this manner until the spill is completely removed. Patience is required, as some spills take longer to be removed than others. After removal is complete rinse the area with cold water and blot dry. Failure to rinse all of the spotting solution may result with residue being left behind. Dry the area completely with a clean towel and apply weight, rotate the towel until dry.

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Stain Removal Chart

  1. LIQUID DRY CLEANING FLUID: A nonflammable liquid available in some hardware stores or through this site.
  2. PAINT,OIL, GREASE REMOVER: Always neutralize with dry cleaning fluid after using this solution.
  3. DETERGENT SOLUTION: Mild, non-bleach detergent (Zero or other delicate soap) 1 tbl spoon into 2 cups warm water.
  4. COLD WATER:
  5. WHITE VINEGAR: undiluted.
  6. AMMONIA SOLUTION: 2 oz regular household ammonia to one cup water.
  7. CLUB SODA: Use undiluted to aid with dye stains.
  8. ENZYME SOLUTION: Mix according to label instructions.
  9. PROFESSIONAL HELP: Some spills require professional attention and chemicals.

 

IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE A STAIN KEEP IT COVERED WITH A MOIST TOWEL AND CALL FOR ASSISTANCE.

STAIN METHOD   STAIN METHOD
Acids(drain openers) 3-9-1-7-8   Kool-Aid see fruit juice
Acne Medications 1-3-6-5-4-9   Lipstick see cosmetics
Alcoholic Beverage 3-6-5-4-9   Medicines see fruit juices
Ashes vacuum-6-4-9   Milk 4-3-4-6-5-8-9
Bleach 3-9-3-3-0   Mud let dry-vac-3-4-6-5-9
Blood 6-4-8-9   Nail Polish 1-2-1-6-3-4-5-9
Butter 1-3-6-5-4-9   Oil 3-9-8-7-3
Candle Wax 1-2-1-9   Paint (latex) 4-3-4-6-5-1-2-1-9
Catsup 4-3-6-5-9   Plant Food 4-3-4-6-5-9
Charcoal vacuum-6-4-9   Pop 4-3-5-6-5-9
Chocolate 1-3-6-5-4-9   Pop (colored) See Fruit Juice
Coffee 5-3-6-5-9   Rust fresh lemon juice-9
Coffee w/milk 5-3-6-5-8-9   Shoe Polish see furniture polish
Cosmetics 1-2-1-3-4-6-5-9   Soap 3-9-9-0-8
Crayon see candle wax   Soot vacuum-6-4-9
Cream 4-3-4-6-5-8-9   Tar 3-9-8-7-3
Feces 6-3-4-5-9   Tea See coffee
Food 3-4-6-5-9   Tea Herbal see fruit juices
Fruit Juice 7-6-5-9   Toothpaste 3-9-9-0-8
Furniture Polish 1-2-1-6-3-4-5-9   Unknown 1-2-1-3-4-6-5-8-9
Glue 1-2-1-9   Urine (fresh) 6-3-4-5-
Grass 1-2-1-3-4-6-5-8-9   Urine (old w/ odor) 3-4-5-4-let dry-8-9
Grease 3-9-8-7-3   Vomit 6-3-4-5-let dry-8-9
Gum (freeze w/ ice) break up-1-9   Wine (red) see fruit juice
Hair Dye 3-9-9-3-8   Wine (red) Bubbly White Wine
Ink 1-6-3-4-5-9   White Wine(as spotter) See Pop
Iodine 1-6-3-4-5-9   White Wine See Alcoholic Beverage

 

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Urine and Odor Removal Tips

 

 

How urine spreads and affects the
deeper layers of carpeting

The types of damage from pet urine can be diverse and are dependent upon the makeup of the urine.

Urine content will change over the pet’s life because of the pet’s diet, medications, age, health, sex, and reproductive cycles. Because of these variations, some urine stains may not be removable without re-dyeing the site of the urine stain.

Fresh urine should be completely blotted (or wet-vacuumed) from the carpet by standing on the paper towels (for maximum absorption) continue blotting with new paper until no further yellow liquid is visible on the paper towels. Once completed apply 1-cup of un-diluted white vinegar to the area and blot dry as described. To complete the process apply a half-inch layer of paper towels to the affected area, and weigh down with a flat, heavy, non-fading object.

Continue to change paper towels until completely dry. Once dry there should be no stain visible. OR (After you have followed the above directions excluding the vinegar), apply our ready to use Urine Odor Remover product using a measuring cup directly to the stain, the solution amount should be equal to the volume of urine (see chart above).

A rubber glove may be worn to massage the solution deeper into the carpet pile for maximum penetration. Since this product must contact all of the urine, repeatedly used or heavily contaminated areas may require additional applications of enzyme solution or a professional assessment should be considered.

Allow at least 30-minutes of contact time in the carpet, and then lightly blot excess solution from the carpet tips. Do not use weight or repeated blotting at this stage. After 1-hrs, check for odor, this will require you to get down onto the carpet and smell the area close up. If odor is still present re-apply as above and leave for another hour.

Once no urine odor is detected with your nose allow the area to dry on its own. Do not rinse the area for at least 24 hrs, then only use a light mist of warm water and dry by applying a half-inch layer of paper towels to the affected area, and weigh down with a flat, heavy, non-fading object. Continue to change paper towels until completely dry. If you still have urine odor you may require more in-depth decontamination repairs such as replacing the under lay or sanitizing and sealing the sub-floor.

On contact with foul smelling urine residue, bacteria begin producing enzymes.
Enzymes start breaking down the organic residue.
The bacteria use broken down residue as food, multiply and produce until the organic residue is eliminated.
When the cycle is complete and the odor causing residue is gone the bacteria and enzymes become inactive and biodegrade.

 

It is also important to know that a small stain on the surface may be 3 or 4 times larger under the carpet. Urine is not always visible from the surface, therefore crawling around on the carpet sniffing for areas may have to be carried out, OR, you may rather choose to arrange an in-home inspection to be carried out.

This entails darkening the room to facilitate a U.V. inspection, as urine is phosphorous and will glow under this type of light. Active urine deposits will register on a moisture meter as well. In addition to UV inspections Dan's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning also provides complete decontamination services.

Bio-enzymatic urine odor remover

 

This product may be used for urine, vomit or other biologically sourced odors and stains (blood, eggs, etc). It contains aerobic and anaerobic cultures which digest the odor source, eliminating the problem. Pre-existing detergents, bleach, disinfectants, and anti microbial solutions must be flushed from the affected area and allowed to dry prior to enzyme treatment. (White Vinegar is a good neutralizing rinse agent).

This method is recommended by the CRI* and is not necessarily endorsed or recommended by Dan’s Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning.

In a pinch, a solution of 1/8 teaspoon of a liquid dishwashing detergent (non-bleach and non-lanolin) with two cups of lukewarm water may be used to remove urine stains. Do not use automatic dishwashing detergent or laundry detergent. Apply the solution to the urine stain after being vacuumed to re-liquefy the stain absorb the moisture with paper towel and repeat the application of detergent once more. Continue rinsing and blotting with the detergent solution and water as long as there is a transfer to the toweling or improvement in the spot. If some yellow still remains follow the detergent application with a solution of two tablespoons of ammonia with one cup of water. Blot dry. Rinse the stain with one cup of undiluted white vinegar and blot dry.


*CRI Technical Bulletin: Pet Urine and Carpet (Excerpts only) Urine can affect the dyes used in carpet, the dyes may change color immediately after contact with urine although not all occurrences will result in a permanent stain. Stain removal success is dependent upon the content of the urine, the dyes and finish used, and the time elapsed after the deposit. Some urine spots may be immediately noticeable, while others may take weeks or months for a reaction. When urine spots develop slowly and are noticed after much time has elapsed, the dyes and carpet fibers may be permanently damaged. In beige carpet, blue dyes are attacked by pet urine, leaving behind the red and yellow dyes with a resulting stain appearing red, yellow, or orange. Pet urine, left unattended, can damage carpet in several ways. Moisture can weaken the layers of the carpet, allowing separation or delamination of the backing material. Seam areas can be particularly damaged and can separate. Another problem, especially with cats, is odor. Unless the cat urine can be completely removed, complete odor removal is unlikely. A number of products are available to combat odor, but may simply mask the odor, and, in times of high humidity, the odor may reappear. Recently, enzymes have been developed that are more effective; but they may be better used by a carpet cleaning professional. If odor cannot be removed, the damaged area of the carpet can be replaced with a piece from reserved scrap. If carpet replacement is necessary, then replacement of cushion and even sub-flooring may also be necessary. Some carpet manufacturers have developed backings that resist spills and even prevent the spillage from penetrating the carpet into the carpet cushion and, perhaps, the sub-floor.

Urine can be a very destructive stain, and can permanently damage or alter the dyes in carpet and fabrics in a very short period of time. Damage to the carpet backing and latex may also occur, delamination being the most common. Pets are creatures of habit and may re-visit the same areas even after treatment, as such other measures may also have to be employed, such as re-training the animal or banning it from a room.

URINE VOLUME CHART:

  • Small dog (toy terrier) 1.5 to 3 oz. per deposit (approx)
  • Medium (beagle) 5 to 7 oz. per deposit (approx)
  • Large (German Sheppard)7 to 9 oz. per deposit (approx)

 

Food For Thought: Based upon (approx) urine volumes, a small dog marking its' territory can deposit 1.5 oz. of urine twice a day for an average of about 8 1/2 gallons of urine over a 12 month period.

If you suspect that such a problem exists in your home, the best solution to this size of contamination is professional services.

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Questions and Answers

Q I've had my carpets cleaned professionally, but I still have odors. Why didn't cleaning work?
A Fresh urine deposits, when cleaned up immediately, normally respond to conventional detergent cleaning for two reasons. First, the urine doesn't have time to penetrate through the carpet backing where you cannot reach it. Secondly, the urine is still acidic and will be neutralized by an alkaline solution such as ammonia. Over time however urine changes into an alkaline crystal (salts) which will no longer respond to conventional methods, (even if you use an acidic cleaning solution you may not reach the deeper regions of the carpet backing or between the carpet and the under pad). This change is caused by the proteins present in urine and the bacteria that form during the decomposition phase. The presence of odor is a by product of the bacteria feeding upon the urine.

Q I no longer have a pet, but the odors keep coming back. Why?
A The urine salts, can go dormant after the bacteria dies off, or the moisture content becomes very low. However the urine salts never really dry up completely, and are actively seeking moisture in order to reactivate. Liquid spills or high humidity, especially in Spring, provide enough moisture to allow for new bacterial growth, thus the return of the odor. As mentioned above, conventional cleaning is not effective at removing urine odors.

Q My pet has occasional accidents, but I do not have a real problem...do I ?
A Perhaps not, but consider this...spayed or neutered animals usually have the occasional accident, and are normally found near the entrance door as they are in anticipation of being let outside, but eventually their bladder must be emptied. Un-neutered animals on the other hand are still very much driven by instinct and will mark and maintain their marked territories, over and over in the same spots.

Q Do males and females mark the same areas?
A No, generally males will urinate in the corners of rooms or on upright objects, such as drapes furniture or floor lamps even the walls are not safe. Females on the other hand usually mark the open areas of a room and sometimes on the front portion of a furniture piece. Both sexes will mark the entrance to certain rooms.

Q My pet would never urinate on the carpet he's house-broken, it's just not possible right?
A Wrong, unfortunately I hear this alot, while I'm standing in a room with urine odor and the moisture meter is going off the chart. Many times what can happen is the pets' feelings are hurt. Perhaps a new pet or baby is introduced into the family and the old pet doesn't get the same attention as before, perhaps you scolded the animal more harshly than ever before, it is very hard to determine exactly what might cause an accident.

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